Many young people today are learning to sew. Some have goals that center on personal creativity, while others are interested in stretching the budget in these difficult times.
Whatever the reason, that first trip to the fabric store for sewing supplies can be daunting and frustrating for the crafter of any age. The first-time shopper encounters a dizzying array of needles and pins — something that should be so simple! When facing a display of scores of different sizes and types of needles, the question becomes, "Which will work for me?" One temptation is to assume that a needle is a needle and pick up the nearest package. This could be a mistake leading to discouragement.
The Big Secret: Match Equipment to the Task
A closer look at different types of needles or pins will reveal something important. Needles and pins should have characteristics that make them suitable for a certain type of project. At first blush, the difference between a quilting needle and an embroidery needle may seem unimportant. Yet, quilting needles must be used for short stitches, and multiple layers of (usually cotton) fabric. Embroidery needles have a larger eye for a heavier thread, or multiple strands of thread, and will be used for varying sizes of stitches usually on a single layer of fabric.
So, the important thing to ask is, "What do I plan to do with this needle, and what kind of needle will be most suitable for my project?"
Length, Eyes, Thickness, and Points
Generally, a shorter needle will be more comfortable for a project that requires tiny stitches. If a needle must penetrate multiple layers of fabric, heavy fabric, or be used in sewing on a thick button, a longer needle will make the project go so much better! So, for projects that involve heavy fabrics such as upholstery, or for projects that involve multiple layers of fabric, such as a repair of a winter jacket, a larger needle will be necessary. Likewise, for a project that involves very short stitches, a long needle will be cumbersome.
The eye of the needle can vary in size. If your project involves heavy-duty thread, you simply cannot use a needle with a tiny eye! Embroidery or crewel needles have large eyes. Some may be tempted to use these needles for all projects, since they are always easy to thread. This is not necessarily a bad strategy, but keep in mind that the eye of that needle passes through the fabric. A large-eyed needle may leave an unattractive hole in delicate fabrics.
When sewing heavy fabrics such as denim, canvas, or upholstery fabric, the needle must be large enough in diameter to withstand the force needed for sewing. A small needle could very well break if it is used with really heavy fabrics.
Needle (and pin) points differ also. For sewing knit fabrics, the point of the needle need not be as sharp as for woven fabrics. Woven fabrics generally must be "pierced" by a sharp needle while a ballpoint needle works best for knitted fabrics. Picture a hand-knitted sweater and think of a knitting needle poking in between yarns rather than splitting yarns. This gives a giant-sized mental image of how a ballpoint needle works.
Needles by the Numbers
The intuitive approach to choosing needles may be the most practical. However, there is a numbering system for each type of needle. A materials list for some projects may specify a #14 tapestry needle or a #9 quilting needle. For hand sewing needles, the larger the number, the smaller the needle. This isn't always an easy rule to remember, especially since the numbering system for sewing machine needles works in the opposite way! For machine needles, the larger the needle, the larger the number.
Fortunately, the sewing and craft alliance has a handy reference to keep us all on track!
Though the numbers of needles and pins available are numerous, a little experience will help a beginner to gain a great deal of confidence.
References:
Gardner, Wendy, The Encyclopedia of Sewing Techniques, Running Press, December 4, 2003, ISBN 0762416513
Martha Stewart Living Magazine, Martha Stewart's Encyclopedia of Sewing and Fabric Crafts: Basic Techniques for Sewing, Applique, Embroidery, Quilting, Dyeing, and Printing, Potter Craft, Mach 30, 2010, ISBN 0307450589
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