Hat Making – Old Craft Making a Comeback

Tips on Hat Pattern Selection, Millinery Supplies and Sewing

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Hats Can Express Personal Style - Quadell
Hats Can Express Personal Style - Quadell
The lingering recession and this winter's bitter cold are inspiring sewing enthusiasts to become interested in this almost forgotten craft. Here are some important tips.

Hat makers figure prominently into some favorite literature for youngsters, but for many years now, there have been very few people who actually made their own hats. Busy schedules and cheap imports made much home sewing seem irrelevant. Now however, many are not so busy, and savings that once seemed insignificant seem more valuable with tighter family budgets. Hats can be made quickly, and often from fabric left over from another sewing project, The savings can add up.

Winter cold, sun sensitivity in summer, and some living with consequences of chemotherapy all point to a big demand for hats.

Here are some guidelines and tips for a would-be hat maker. This information concerns fabric hats; felt and straw hats are another story for another day.

Hat Making is Sewing

Making a hat from fabric is just a sewing project! In the case of hats made from fabric, hat making equipment is sewing equipment. The items needed are the same as for any sewing project:

  • Sewing machine
  • Scissors, cutting and marking supplies
  • Needles, thread, and hand sewing supplies.

How to Choose a Hat Pattern for a Beginner

The first thing is to decide on the type of hat. Some hats are suitable for beginners, but not all. For a beginner, follow the same criteria for choosing any beginning sewing project. Look for a hat that has few pieces, few seams, and (for a beginner) is made from stretchy fabric such as polar fleece. In other words, start with a simple ski cap. Ski caps have few seams, and polar fleece or other stretchy knit is very forgiving if cutting and seam allowances are not exact.

As always, when sticking to a budget is important, saving on patterns can make an enormous difference. Be sure to watch for sales and coupons!

Choosing a Hat Pattern for Those with Sewing Experience

Those with sewing expertise can choose from a broader array of styles. Here are some things to keep in mind:

  • Cutting must be precise
  • Seam allowances must be precise
  • Bills are obstinate
  • Grosgrain ribbon adds a nice finishing touch for many hats.

Hats must be cut and sewn precisely in order to fit. Think of baseball caps – they are usually cut in six sections. If each seam is sewn with a seam allowance that is just 1/4 inch too big, that adds up to 1.5" in the size of the cap! The project is not "difficult" in the sense that it is hopelessly complicated, but it does require extreme care to ensure proper fit.

Another options in hat style involves brims and bills. Generally, a brim is easier sewing than a bill. The reason is the stiffness of the bill. It can be a little exasperating to sew the crown of a hat to the bill because of the curve and stiffness of the bill. It is a short seam, and those who master this can make a hat very quickly, but keep a seam ripper handy!

Often grosgrain ribbon is called for to finish the inside of a cap with a bill. This ribbon is woven, and is very strong. It is available in most fabric or craft stores. Choice of colors may be somewhat limited, but remember, this is on the inside of the hat. Do not substitute satin ribbon or cheap craft ribbon in order to match colors! The strength of the grosgrain ribbon really is necessary!

Choices for Stiffener for a Bill

Since hat making is not the most common hobby around, it can be challenging to find material to use to make a stiff bill. For a narrow bill, buckram can work well (and is commonly listed on the pattern as a recommendation). It is not bulky and this is a big plus! Most fabric stores carry buckram; it is often located near interior decorating fabrics. Another choice is craft weight interfacing. This is not always easy to find in fabric stores either. It is a little more bulky than buckram.

For a wider bill, such as that for a ball cap, plastic may be the best choice. Some craft stores sell sheets of plastic. Another possibility is using some re-purposed plastic from packaging material or some other source. Once the plastic is covered with fabric it will not show, so there is no harm in using clean plastic from an unconventional source.

Availability of Hat Patterns

In the last couple of years, the major pattern companies have dramatically reduced their lines of hat patterns. Fortunately for the beginner, there are still quite a few choices. For those looking for a more challenging pattern or just something other than a stretch knit cap, Vogue, and Kwik Sew still have several choices. There are still several hat patterns available from many companies that are paired with clothing patterns such as jackets or suits. Companies that specialize in outdoor sewing patterns such as Green Pepper and Controlled Exposure offer great hat patterns for skiing, hiking, and other outdoor pursuits. See tips appropriate for rain and all-weather hats in How to Sew Outdoor and Hiking Gear.

Gather Pattern, Fabric, and Hat Making Supplies and Start Sewing!

Hat making is an adventure and challenge. Anyone with a little patience can make a hat for a gift or just for a sense of accomplishment or personal style.

Kelley Smith, Danny G. Smith

Kelley Smith - Kelley Smith is a freelance writer in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma.

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